No, I'm not particularly sporty yohimbe za jeni Aylesbury duck, green olives and corn (£14.50) was a hefty dish but not dauntingly so: inch cubes of meat, pink with perfectly charred skin, a decent, young flavour; the corn a revelation, with the appearance of very buttery mash but a starchier, denser texture and, well, a cornier flavour. Cerignola olives, giant and mild, stopped it all becoming too rich. I liked this, especially with a little-gem, buttermilk and dill salad (£5.50), in which one could actually taste the lettuce (I’m surprised how rare that is).
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